In almost every testing category, the Varia VS3 performs extremely well. This makes it our top recommendation among entry-level espresso grinders. We tested the Varia VS3 for many months in our Coffee Academy as well as at home. Both the Gen 1 (VS2) and Gen 2 (VS3) versions were evaluated.
Our goal as grinder reviewers and roasters is to help you find the best equipment for your home, allowing you to get the absolute best out of our coffees. With the Varia VS3, we are on a very exciting track.
In the meantime, we have also tested the larger sibling of the Varia VS3, which was introduced to the market under the name VS6.
Small Price, Small Footprint – Great Performance?
Measuring just 9 cm wide, 31 cm high, and 14.8 cm deep (16.3 cm including the plug), the Varia VS3 is one of the narrowest grinders on the market. Its black or white painted stainless steel body is elegant and looks sophisticated, especially next to black or white machines. Despite its light weight of only 3.7 kg, the grinder sits solidly on the countertop.
This aspect of the grinder is a pleasant surprise overall: the external build quality exceeds expectations given its low price point for an espresso grinder of around €370. At the time of testing, we saw the grinder in Switzerland for as low as 270 CHF, although that appeared to be a special offer.
The grinder is equipped with a 48 mm conical burr set, with a core inner diameter of 38 mm. These burrs are machined from high-nitrogen 420 stainless steel. Varia specifies a burr lifespan of 150 kg of coffee. That is significantly lower than what other manufacturers target. Assuming 80 espresso shots per kilogram, that translates to 12,000 espresso extractions. After that, the burr set is easy to replace, especially since Varia offers additional burr options with different taste profiles.
Espresso Quality
The Varia VS3 with the standard burr delivers solid espresso. The shot tastes full-bodied and balanced. Subtle nuances of complex coffees are less pronounced than a round, delicious body. The espressos we pulled were sweet and well-rounded.
We wouldn't name the Varia VS3 as the first choice for highly complex coffees. To us, the Varia VS3 seems like an excellent grinder for medium roasts. It is well suited for reliably unlocking the taste potential inherent in coffee beans.
The particle size distribution we measured is good. The primary peak lies in the medium range with a width of 259 microns, as does the fines ratio at 24.6 percent.
Accessories and Included Items
The included dosing cup is too small to fit 58 mm portafilters comfortably. An aftermarket cup is now available for purchase that fits 58 mm portafilters. Unfortunately, this incurs extra costs, as the included cup is not ideal for daily use. The diameter wouldn't be a negative point if the cup could sit securely on top of the portafilter like our KM Cup. However, it lacks the small side tabs required for that.
Also included is a small spray bottle (RDT) to mist the beans with water before grinding. A published study shows that this has a positive impact on coffee extraction.
One negative detail: While the grinder itself is built compact, it cannot function without its massive power brick. It is as large as many laptop chargers. If you can't stow it away under your kitchen counter, it can quickly get annoying. A community member found a clever solution and 3D-printed a backpack mount for the power supply.
Updated Model of the Varia VS3 (Gen 2)
We tested both Generation 1 and Generation 2 (Gen 2) versions of the Varia VS3. The newer model features a slightly stronger motor and no longer has a coated entry chute inside the grinder. Some users experienced issues with previous versions where the motor stalled on very light roasts. That is no longer an issue with the current model.
While the coating in the entry chute looked sleek, it created significant static charge, causing bean fragments to cling to the walls. While this has been improved, it remains present due to the design. Static is a factor with the Varia VS3, which makes using the water spray bottle (RDT) highly recommended.
Speed and Noise Level
The Varia VS3 is among the slower espresso grinders we've measured. It grinds just 6.7 grams of coffee in 10 seconds. In that time, you could almost clean half your espresso machine. The slow speed takes some getting used to and alters your workflow rhythm, especially if you're used to faster grinders. If you aren't accustomed to ultra-fast commercial grinders, the grind time won't pose much of a problem in daily use.
Additionally, the grinder produces a fairly high-pitched humming sound while grinding. At 73 decibels, it is relatively quiet compared to other grinders, but the pitch can sound a bit uneven. It lacks the deep rumble of a heavy grinder, but it fulfills its purpose completely.
Otherwise, operation is kept very simple: a single button starts and stops the grinding process.
Single Dosing Performance
The Varia VS3 is designed specifically as a single-dosing grinder. To qualify as a good single-dosing grinder, a device should meet two criteria:
The exchange retention of the grinder sits at 1.1 grams without aids. When using the included bellows, retention drops to an outstanding 0.05 grams. That is exemplary.
The bellows can be removed and the magnetic lid placed directly on the grinder. However, it then sits very tightly. Tip: Twist rather than pull to remove it more easily. Since using the bellows is extremely effective, it will likely remain in use most of the time.
Regarding the second criterion—grind repeatability after major adjustments—particle analysis at the ZHAW showed slight variance when switching from very fine ristretto settings to coarse lungo settings. However, if you primarily make fine adjustments within the espresso range during daily use, grind repeatability proves completely unproblematic in practice.
Workflow with the Varia VS3
Due to static electricity, using the RDT method (water spray bottle) is almost a necessity. First, it prevents coffee powder from sticking to the dosing cup, and second, extractions run more evenly. With water misting, the Varia VS3 is an extremely functional grinder!
Burr Options: Worthwhile Upgrade or Unnecessary Luxury?
Varia offers several optional burr sets for the VS3—ranging from the standard model to coated Ultra variants. Our testing revealed that swapping burrs can be worthwhile depending on your taste preferences:
Verdict and Results: Varia VS3
Despite valid criticisms, we shouldn't lose sight of the fact that the Varia VS3 is hard to beat in terms of price-to-performance. Good espresso quality, minimal retention (with bellows), good consistency, and pragmatic usability in a truly elegant body with high-quality finishing—all for around €360 / 270–350 CHF.
Pros
Cons
The Varia VS3 is far superior to the cheaper Sage Smart Grinder Pro, holds its own well against a DF64, and doesn't need to hide from a Eureka Magnifico either. All in all, a great and interesting grinder for getting started with single dosing!
